M31 Andromeda

This is my 2nd attempt at M31 with the modified DSLR (Canon XT) ISO800

 17 each 3 minute images.

The Pelican Nebula (also known as IC5070 and IC5067)

23 each 2 minute images, ISO800 modified Canon XT, SW254N scope, EQ5pro mount:

From Wikipedia:

The Pelican Nebula (also known as IC5070 and IC5067) is an H II region associated with the North America Nebula in the constellation Cygnus. The nebula resembles a pelican in shape, hence the name. The Pelican Nebula is a large area of emission nebula in the constellation Cygnus (the Swan), close to Deneb, and divided from its brighter, larger neighbor, the North America Nebula, by a molecular cloud filled with dark dust.
The Pelican is much studied because it has a particularly active mix of star formation and evolving gas clouds. The light from young energetic stars is slowly transforming cold gas to hot and causing an ionization front gradually to advance outward. Particularly dense filaments of cold gas are seen to still remain. Millions of years from now this nebula might no longer be known as the Pelican, as the balance and placement of stars and gas will leave something that appears completely different.

NGC6992 Eastern Veil Nebula

This was the first serious attempt at a very faint nebula that is mostly red wisps. I was able to get about 1/2 of the nebula as framing it is very difficult. Any way here's the result. 10 each 2 minute images Canon XT modified.

Update! I gave this subject another run last night. Turned down the ISO to 800 and took 23 images. Also found the 'Veil' part of the nebula and snapped this one off. I personally think this is the best I've done to this point:

M27 Dumbbell nebula with modified DSLR

I decided to try for M27 with the modified Canon XT last night. 10 each 1 minute images.

M20 after DSLR modification

I got a Hap Griffith IR blocking filter (Astrodon) for my Canon 350d that I had decided to modify on my own. It was quite a challenge and not something I would recommend doing for anyone that doesn't have experience working with very small electronic components (imagine the inside of a computer reduced down by 80%!) Anyway I was successful in my attempt at it. The theory behind all of this is that the normal IR filter placed in DSLRs by the factory are made for normal photography. With Astrophotography we are attempting to capture extremely faint lights and colors. The normal IR filter does a very (overly good) job of blocking reds. Many of the deep sky objects we are attempting to capture contain significant amounts of red. Hence that is the light the normal IR filter blocks. So a few after market manufactures have a modified IR filter you can use as a replacement. However this requires getting into the guts of the DSLR to change it. The end result is a lower exposure time and much brighter reds. Here's my result from last night. No color tweeks just normal processing. Keep in mind I was shooting this with a 1/2 moon very close to the target object so it wiped out some of the blue portions that I captured in the earlier image.